Quickly caught up leaving Blaye, direction Plassac, the Corniche road which winds along the Gironde until Bourg offers an impressive panorama of the Estuary. Enclosed between steep cliffs which on one side dominate it and on the other support it, it presents to the traveler's eye a most picturesque landscape.
Wild charm
It's hard to know where to look. As soon as the road hits the road, explosions of colors and scenery, each more charming than the last, catch the driver's eye. On one side, a remarkable opening onto the Bec d'Ambès and the islands, punctuated by numerous explanatory panels and viewpoints allowing you to best appreciate the beauty of the landscape. Everywhere around, hilly landscapes and charming localities where a succession of residences are located, each more beautiful than the last.
It seems impossible to choose your favorite passage as the route offers a diversity of styles and attractions. Along the way, you can appreciate fishing nets, fishermen's houses and 19th century troglodyte houses nestled in limestone cliffs. At each turn, signs suggest discovering castles and vineyards, the transition occurring naturally between Blaye, Côtes de Bordeaux and Côtes de Bourg.
One eye on history, the other on the road
All of a sudden, the corniche road dips, forcing me to take my eyes off the surroundings to concentrate on the journey. As I get closer to the river level, hiking trails and mountain bike trails appear, allowing the more daring to scale the cliff.
Traveling this route by bike must be particularly pleasant. The motorist must remain very attentive to his driving. Fortunately, viewpoints are regularly created with the possibility of parking and fully enjoying the landscape.
Stop at Bec d’Ambes
I stop at the Bec d'Ambès, a real panorama of the opening of the estuary, near Château Tayac. An orientation table informs me about the history, heritage and surrounding environment. Behind me, vines run as far as the eye can see. Here and there, dovecotes are hidden along the side of the path, vestiges of a bygone era.
The Corniche road, between modernity and magic
I take the road again and the estuary is soon camouflaged by small flower gardens on the cliffside. Oleanders, palm trees and banana trees grow happily, giving even more character to neighboring homes. My attention is drawn to strange silhouettes through the foliage. Metal creatures seem to be frolicking in the middle of a small meadow.
They echo the driftwood sculptures that I saw at the water's edge. The mystery does not last, a resident of Roque de Thau, faced with my perplexity, explains to me that these critters are part of the exhibition Les Revenants, which features 12 artists from 11 towns in Gironde.
A great initiative which contributes to the charm without denoting the enchantment of the place. This enchanting setting accompanies me for a few minutes, until the road rises sharply inland, giving way again to a landscape of vineyards and old buildings that is no less attractive.
Arrival at Bourg brings me closer to the Estuary again. This ancient village has characteristics common to Blaye: built on a rocky peak, it also has an undeniable historical character and an impressive view.
Bourg, village marked by history
It's better to be in good shape to explore the city: more than 500 steps connect the upper town and the lower town. As I wander through the medieval streets, I come across a few anachronisms. Visible from the port, a surprising Moorish villa built by a former colonial official faces the banks of the Dordogne.
A little further away, like a local Loch Ness monster, the wreck of the Frisco, an Italian ship sunk by the Germans in 1944, protrudes from the water even at high tide. Following the stone stairs that descend from the Château de la Citadelle, I arrive in a pleasant park where a promenade along the water and a family area rub shoulders with a pond and its small island, ideal for a picnic before hitting the road again. .
A slight detour to connect the different villages, the Corniche road offers a breathtaking panorama of the Gironde estuary and the different architecture. The only difficulty is to reconcile observation of the landscape and driving. However, by driving quietly, you can enjoy the many charms of the landscape.
And for those less in a hurry, the viewpoints and paths allow you to fully appreciate all the reliefs of the land and the beautiful residences to contemplate without moderation! The charming localities punctuate the route with opportunities for appreciable breaks and the alternation between the aridity of the cliffs and the vineyards as far as the eye can see make these few kilometers seem like a much more important cruise through the ages.
Although it extends the journey between Blaye and Bourg by a few minutes, the Corniche road is definitely worth a look and confirms the adage that the important thing is not the destination, but the journey.
What to do in Bourg?
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